CUT LIST: Apothecary Drawer Chest

Cut from 3/4" hardwood

Part	Qty	Length	Width	Thick	BdFt	Tolerance
Left side	1	20"	10"	3/4"	1.39	±1/32"
Right side	1	20"	10"	3/4"	1.39	±1/32"
Top panel	1	22-1/2"	10"	3/4"	1.56	±1/32"
Bottom panel	1	22-1/2"	10"	3/4"	1.56	±1/32"
Drawer front	20	3-5/16"	5-1/4"	1/2"	2.38	±1/8"

Cut from 1/4" plywood

Part	Qty	Length	Width	Thick	BdFt	Tolerance
Horizontal divider	4	22-1/2"	9-1/2"	1/4"	—	±1/32"
Vertical divider	15	3-1/2"	9-1/2"	1/4"	—	±1/32"
Back panel	1	19"	23"	1/4"	—	±1/32"
Drawer side	40	2-1/2"	8-1/2"	1/4"	—	±1/8"
Drawer end	40	2-1/2"	4-15/16"	1/4"	—	±1/8"
Drawer bottom	20	4-15/16"	8-1/2"	1/4"	—	±1/8"

Total board feet: 8.28 Total individual parts: 144

Materials in this build

Parts are grouped by the stock they're cut from — confirm each part against its own material before cutting.

• 3/4" hardwood — Left side, Right side, Top panel, Bottom panel, Drawer front
• 1/4" plywood — Horizontal divider, Vertical divider, Back panel, Drawer side, Drawer end, Drawer bottom

Joinery tolerances (per joint)

• Left side ↔ Horizontal divider — dado (±1/32" (±0.8mm)): Table saw or router — needs precision
• Right side ↔ Horizontal divider — dado (±1/32" (±0.8mm)): Table saw or router — needs precision
• Left side ↔ Top panel — dado (±1/32" (±0.8mm)): Table saw or router — needs precision
• Right side ↔ Top panel — dado (±1/32" (±0.8mm)): Table saw or router — needs precision
• Left side ↔ Bottom panel — dado (±1/32" (±0.8mm)): Table saw or router — needs precision
• Right side ↔ Bottom panel — dado (±1/32" (±0.8mm)): Table saw or router — needs precision
• Horizontal divider ↔ Vertical divider — dado (±1/32" (±0.8mm)): Table saw or router — needs precision
• Left side ↔ Back panel — rabbet (±1/32" (±0.8mm)): Table saw or router — needs precision
• Right side ↔ Back panel — rabbet (±1/32" (±0.8mm)): Table saw or router — needs precision

Joinery allowance — cut these LONGER than the listed length

The Length column above is the finished / clear size. A part that seats into a dado, rabbet, or mortise must be cut longer so its ends reach the bottom of the housing. Add the depth at each seated end before you cut. Sheet layouts for these parts use nominal dimensions; confirm the housing allowances before using the layout:

• Back panel — seats into a rabbet (~0.25" deep): add 0.25" per seated end (2 seated ends, into a side at each end → +0.5" per board over the listed length).
• Bottom panel — seats into a dado (~0.25" deep): add 0.25" per seated end (2 seated ends, into a side at each end → +0.5" per board over the listed length).
• Horizontal divider — seats into a dado (~0.125" deep): add 0.125" per seated end (2 seated ends, into a side at each end → +0.25" per board over the listed length).
• Top panel — seats into a dado (~0.25" deep): add 0.25" per seated end (2 seated ends, into a side at each end → +0.5" per board over the listed length).
• Vertical divider — seats into a dado (~0.125" deep): add 0.125" per seated end (2 seated ends, into shelf → +0.25" per board over the listed length).

Tolerance legend

• ±1/64" (±0.4mm) — Mortise-and-tenon, dovetail. Router or sharp chisels; fit-up matters.
• ±1/32" (±0.8mm) — Dado, rabbet, box joint. Table saw or router — precision tooling.
• ±1/16" (±1.5mm) — Dowels, biscuits, pocket screws. Careful measurement; forgiving of small drift.
• ±1/8" (±3mm) — Butt joints with screws. A circular saw or miter saw handles this fine.
• ±0.1–0.5mm — 3D-printed snap/press fits and heat-set inserts. Printer calibration matters more than cuts.

Tools needed for this build

• Table Saw or Router — for dado joints
• Circular Saw or Miter Saw — for crosscutting the boards to length
• Clamps — for the dry-fit and glue-up

You didn't tell us which tools you have, so we're not assuming. Borrow what you're missing — a drill is the one most builds need.